Roof Truss Installation.

Starting Out:

When starting out with the installation of your roof truss's its essential to ensure that you have all the correct information regarding the truss's supplied and ensure you have all the necessary design details and specifications for your roof. If you encounter any technical areas that need addressing when it comes to the design and manufacturing/ Installation of the truss's to the specific job then they are best addressed before installation of the Truss Roof, check that a Truss Layout is provided, that the design criteria is acknowledged, where support locations are and that you have the necessary fixings "specified" as well as any details of special bracing that may be required to install your truss roof .

Checklist:
Before you start to install the Truss roof it's essential that you go through and make sure you have a clear picture any problems you might encounter when physically installing the roof once you have a clear picture of what needs to be done in your head you always encounter on the job problems that will change or delay your installation process.
Go around the top plates and ensure they are all straight and make sure "all walls, supporting and non supporting" are plumb, fixed and secure, check to find out the level of your top plate and ensure all supporting walls are to the specification. Ensure all supporting walls have 12mm clearance over non load bearing walls, check all your Truss's for any damage and ensure you setup a scaffold.

Best Way to Erect a Truss Roof:
Find the Truss layout, find and mark the top plates and where all supported Truss's will sit in relation to them. Once you do this you should workout what order is best for the installation of Truss's, start with simple Girder or Gable end roofs with the smallest span where possible, start from and end using the gable and hips for support and then erect your nearest standard truss, ensuring you plumb and level your Truss's as you move along. If you leave Valley's and large blocks to last you will gain a full picture of your Truss roof more quickly.

Tips for Truss Installation:
- Locate Supporting Truss's at the end of block, Ie: Girder Truss and Hips and Truncated Girder Truss for Standard Truss's.
- Erect Truss at the end of a roof block.
- Ensure you fully fix these as you go.
- When erecting Standard Truss's make sure you have all Girder truss's installed in that block.
- Saddle Truss's to be installed last when all adjacent blocks are installed.



Spacing and Bracing: When settining our your Truss's you will find youself fixing to to marks on your top plate but they need to be spaced at the apex and a spacer can be used to space them while you install your tempoary bracing. You can make a simple gig up to your desired centers.




Gable End and Eaves:
Gable ends are relitivly simple however when eves come into play you will find yourself using a raking truss to house your outrigers, your facia and barg board are then installed of this.

Saddles and Connecting Major and Minor Roofs:
Saddle truss's are used to connect major and minor roof blocks. They are fixed using braces and blocking as they are never housed. Sitting on the roofing pitch they must be plumbed. They are

Lining Installation and Truss "Settlement":
Truss's are designed with a camber on the bottom cord this allows for settlement of the truss once all loadings are places on the Truss, this includes air conditions units and ducting, roofing and linings ect... This means that when you go to install the linings you must account for the

Installation Tolerances:
The tolerance for the plumb of a Truss is The Lesser of 50 or the Truss height/ 50.
For the camber it is The Lesser of 50 or the Truss length/ 200.

Steps we used in installing our Truss Roof.
- First thing we did was to setup our top plate to the shape required, we then leveled and squared the Top plate ensuring that the roof we where about to put up was indeed level.
- Our Truss Roof was a gable end roof, so we started by installing our two standard Truss's at each end of the main roof. We fixed and plumbed one end.
- We than ran our String line down the ridge line from one apex to the other. This gave us a a point for the rest of our truss apexs to meet ensuring a straight ridge line.
- Next we started to install the rest of our standard Truss's from one end at 600mm centers.
- Once we got to the point where our two minor roof blocks met we then installed our Truncated Girder Truss. We ensured it was inline and level.
- Then the Girder Brackets go on, ensuring we retain our 600 centers when installing them. Making sure they are at the right heights to keep our ridge line straight.
- Before we could install of our Standard Truss's we needed to install our Ridge Truss's on each side to brace the truncated girder Truss.
-Once we finnished putting on all four Hip Truss's we installed the last of the standard truss's.
- Its important to note that we braced the standard Truss's as we moved along, keeping our roofline straight.
- One our main block with Gable ends was complete we then setout installing the rest of our Minor block roofs.
- We started this by first installing our Jack Truss's.
- Once this was done we ran a Stringline all the way through from one Apex to another from one side of the roof to the cemetric apex on the other side.
- This gave us a height for our saddle Truss's and we fixed them to keep our apex straight all the way through.
- Once this was done fixed our creepers using tempoary bracing.
- After this we installed our speed bracing in a diamond shape on our main block.
- We then went about installing our valley boards, we used a string line to find our true valley and marked out 200mm in each direction leaving us with a 90mm gap between our two valley boards.
- One group then went of and installed our facia and facia brackets, using pop rivets to fix the internal and external corners.
- At the same time another group could fix all of our roofing batterns down, we followed down our valley boards and maintainted a distance of 140mm from our ridgeline, facia and hip lines.

Window Project

OHS and Assesment

Yesterday we learnt about OS&H and did our assessment on doing a purchase order for the fittings for a house, such as skirting, window sills, architraves and Scotia. I passed with only two mistakes, forgetting to round up two lengths of timber. It went easy considering the hype by other students and our teacher as to the dificulty of this test.

We also learnt about hazardous materials, different fire classes and the types of fire extinguisher that are used on these fires, like Class A fires and how water extingisuers cant be used on oil fires.
We covered items such as the rules about tagging tools and machinary out of order.

Construction Plan Cladding

Assesment One:

QUESTION 1:

Find the amount and price of boards:

Key:

Wall Height = 2400

Window Height 1+2 = 1300

Window Height 3 = 1200

Window Height 4 =1500

Door Height =2100

The Cover of the boards is 160mm.

The Total waste of 7%

Boards at $7.25 per meter

Perimeter:

The total perimeter of the sight in question is five thousand and two hundred (5200mm) multiplied by two and eight thousand five hundred and fifty (8550mm) also multiplied by two equally 10400 and 17100, these are the added together to equal 27’500mm or 27.5m.

Net Area:

The net area of all the walls on site then equals the above perimeter times the height, of 2400, this equals sixty six square meters. (66 sqm)

Area of openings:

Once the net area of wall space is found you need to add up all the openings and then subtract them for the gross area of cladding.

Window one and two

Are both 1300 high and sixteen hundred wide, this means they both equal 2080 or 2.08sqm; for a combined total of (4.16 sqm.)

Window Three

Is 1200 high by 1100 wide, equalling an area of (1.32sqm).

Window Four

Is 1500 tall by 1700 wide, equalling a area of (2.55 sqm)

Door One

The door is 2100 by 900 high. Equalling a total area of (1.89 sqm)

Total Openings:

= 9.92sqm.

Gross Area:

Is the Net Area take the total area of all openings on the façade of the building, this means the equation is 66sqm subtracting 9.92 sqm, equalling (56.04 sqm).

Lineal Meters:

The total length of board is simply the gross sqm of boards divided by the covering height. So the equation is then 56.040 divided by 0.160, this equals three hundred and fifty point, zero two five. (350.025 Lm)

Total Waste:

Carpenters should ensure they have sufficient waste to ensure they have enough meter age through the job. I did the sum as follows 350.025 x 0.7 = answer x 0.1, moving the decimal place over one, this equals 24.517m onto of the original 350.025 equalling a total length including waste of 374.542m

Cost:

The price is done per Lm so we times the number of meters by the price per meter, this being $7.25, equalling $2715.433

QESTION 2:

Find the total area and cost of cement sheeting:

Key:

Window 1 1500 x1500 = 2.25sqm

Window 2 1800 x1200 = 2.16sqm

Window 3 1800 x1800 = 3.24sqm

Window 4 1800 x1200 = 2.16sqm

Window 5 1500 x1500 = 2.25sqm

Window 6 1200 x1800 = 2.16sqm

Door 1 2100 x 900 = 1.89sqm

Sheet size: 2.7x 1.2m = 3.24 sqm

Waste: 7.5%

Cost per sqm is $6.45

Perimeter:

Is all the sides added together:

10,110 + 3,350 + 6,760 + 1,880 + 7,030 +5,150 = (34,270 or 34.27 m.)

Net Area:

Is the perimeter time the height,

34.27m x 2.4 = (82.24 sqm)

Area of Openings:

See Key for individual sizes. Total equals 16.11sqm

Gross Area:

Net Area subtract the openings, 82.24 – 16.11 = (66.13sqm)

Number of Boards:

Divide the Gross area by the size of the sheet, 66.13 divided by 3.24 = 20.41 sheet

Waste:

Additional waste is required for cuts, equalling 7.25. This would take the total sum to 22.889 sheets. Taking the total sheets when costing to 23 sheets.

If however you where to stand them vertically you could order 28 sheets and cut of 300mm equal to 11.11% of waste.

Cost

Is for 22 sheets, these 23 sheets equal 74.52sqm, the sheets are $6.45 per sqm.

So times the total sheet area by the price, equalling ($480.65)

(NOTE: OUR CLASS WAS GIVEN 2.4M STUD HEIGHTS.)

Cladding

Cladding Installation:

Today we installed cladding on the mock houses, we used MDF as cladding representing cement sheeting. Before we went outside, me and Cameron ripped down some pine for the internal and external stop ends we rebated the external stop end, we then used brown builders paper as sisolation to start with, wrapping up both an external and internal corners ensuring it overlapped at least 20m horizontally and 50m vertically.
Once that was done we put flashing down the corners and screwed our stop ends onto corner studs. We then proceeded to clad the wall, first measuring the length between the internal and external corners.

Starting at the bottom working up, first using a packer of equal thickness as the cladding, this was screwed into the side of the structural steel track. We put in our first length of cladding leveling it with our stop ends (already leveled of each other) we then overlapped each length after that by 25mm, you get into a rhythm and the cladding goes up fast and efficiently.

Hanging Doors and Installing Door Hardware.

Hanging Doors:

On Friday our class was divided into two groups. One Half proceeded into hanging doors and the other worked on alternative projects like the toolboxes and chopping boards.

I went onto work on the doors; after last weeks theory we now got to put that in to practice, we started with a single door that sat within a steel frame braced against those around them. We could not ensure that they where plumb, because the lecturers had already fixed them. However we got stuck in any way, we first tried to sit the door within the frame and check it for size, one we know how much needs to be taken of we put the door in a vise or brace and planed down the hinge side with a buzzer, allowing a few more millimeters to be taken of the inside edge.

Once the doors fitted within the frame with a few mill clearance on each side (taking into account the fact the hinge(build into the door) was not get chiseled out). We then raised the door using wedges packing the top out two millimeters. At the back of the door you ensure that there is two to three mill cap between the back of the door and the rebate, ensuring that the doors does not become hinge bound, when marking this cap onto the hinge side of the door you mark them taking the hinge away from inside edge, pushing the hinge out further along with the door.

Once the door is sitting flush within the frame, you mark out the hinges out using a pencil. You take them down and use a square to line them up, you mark out you're hinge depth, height and width across the door with a marking gauge or without and then proceed to chisel it out to the required depth.

Once you're hinges sit flush within the door, you will then lift you're door using wedges to height so that the hinges lines up, you then countersink and screw the highest point on the top hinge, you then screw the bottom hinge on and close the door. This method requires quality time to be taken when marking out and my door did not tacking down.

Double Doors:

The same processes are used while hanging double doors, only allot of care needs to be taken to ensure that they are plumb and level with each other, equally the latch side of the door on double doors need to be planed with a slope backwards, allowing the doors to close without touching.
Installing Door Hardware:

On our single door we installed common passage handles with common latches, You start by finding you're latch height (as it was a steel prefab frame) and proceed to mark the middle across the front of the door (in pencil) you then find the depth of the common latch and mark that vertically across the horizontal height line. Where they cross is the middle and where you're hole saw should aim at.

Once the hole big enough to house the door hardware was drilled out we then marked the latch out using the same method to find the middle height and width across the latch sides face, we then used a chisel to take out the latch plate, ensuring it sits flush. Once thats done you get a spade bit large enough to fit the common passage and drill out the latch housings.
After that, you place you're latch passage through and then put the handles on, screwing it all together.

Once that is done the latch plate needed moving forward ensuring the door was tight when closed.