Thursday, December 11, 2008
OHS and Assesment
Yesterday we learnt about OS&H and did our assessment on doing a purchase order for the fittings for a house, such as skirting, window sills, architraves and Scotia. I passed with only two mistakes, forgetting to round up two lengths of timber. It went easy considering the hype by other students and our teacher as to the dificulty of this test.
We also learnt about hazardous materials, different fire classes and the types of fire extinguisher that are used on these fires, like Class A fires and how water extingisuers cant be used on oil fires.
We covered items such as the rules about tagging tools and machinary out of order.
We also learnt about hazardous materials, different fire classes and the types of fire extinguisher that are used on these fires, like Class A fires and how water extingisuers cant be used on oil fires.
We covered items such as the rules about tagging tools and machinary out of order.
Monday, December 8, 2008
Assesment One:
QUESTION 1:
Find the amount and price of boards:
Key:
Wall Height = 2400
Window Height 1+2 = 1300
Window Height 3 = 1200
Window Height 4 =1500
Door Height =2100
The Cover of the boards is 160mm.
The Total waste of 7%
Boards at $7.25 per meter
Perimeter:
The total perimeter of the sight in question is five thousand and two hundred (5200mm) multiplied by two and eight thousand five hundred and fifty (8550mm) also multiplied by two equally 10400 and 17100, these are the added together to equal 27’500mm or 27.5m.
Net Area:
The net area of all the walls on site then equals the above perimeter times the height, of 2400, this equals sixty six square meters. (66 sqm)
Area of openings:
Once the net area of wall space is found you need to add up all the openings and then subtract them for the gross area of cladding.
Window one and two
Are both 1300 high and sixteen hundred wide, this means they both equal 2080 or 2.08sqm; for a combined total of (4.16 sqm.)
Window Three
Is 1200 high by 1100 wide, equalling an area of (1.32sqm).
Window Four
Is 1500 tall by 1700 wide, equalling a area of (2.55 sqm)
Door One
The door is 2100 by 900 high. Equalling a total area of (1.89 sqm)
Total Openings:
= 9.92sqm.
Gross Area:
Is the Net Area take the total area of all openings on the façade of the building, this means the equation is 66sqm subtracting 9.92 sqm, equalling (56.04 sqm).
Lineal Meters:
The total length of board is simply the gross sqm of boards divided by the covering height. So the equation is then 56.040 divided by 0.160, this equals three hundred and fifty point, zero two five. (350.025 Lm)
Total Waste:
Carpenters should ensure they have sufficient waste to ensure they have enough meter age through the job. I did the sum as follows 350.025 x 0.7 = answer x 0.1, moving the decimal place over one, this equals 24.517m onto of the original 350.025 equalling a total length including waste of 374.542m
Cost:
The price is done per Lm so we times the number of meters by the price per meter, this being $7.25, equalling $2715.433
QESTION 2:
Find the total area and cost of cement sheeting:
Key:
Window 1 1500 x1500 = 2.25sqm
Window 2 1800 x1200 = 2.16sqm
Window 3 1800 x1800 = 3.24sqm
Window 4 1800 x1200 = 2.16sqm
Window 5 1500 x1500 = 2.25sqm
Window 6 1200 x1800 = 2.16sqm
Door 1 2100 x 900 = 1.89sqm
Sheet size: 2.7x 1.2m = 3.24 sqm
Waste: 7.5%
Cost per sqm is $6.45
Perimeter:
Is all the sides added together:
10,110 + 3,350 + 6,760 + 1,880 + 7,030 +5,150 = (34,270 or 34.27 m.)
Net Area:
Is the perimeter time the height,
34.27m x 2.4 = (82.24 sqm)
Area of Openings:
See Key for individual sizes. Total equals 16.11sqm
Gross Area:
Net Area subtract the openings, 82.24 – 16.11 = (66.13sqm)
Number of Boards:
Divide the Gross area by the size of the sheet, 66.13 divided by 3.24 = 20.41 sheet
Waste:
Additional waste is required for cuts, equalling 7.25. This would take the total sum to 22.889 sheets. Taking the total sheets when costing to 23 sheets.
If however you where to stand them vertically you could order 28 sheets and cut of 300mm equal to 11.11% of waste.
Cost
Is for 22 sheets, these 23 sheets equal 74.52sqm, the sheets are $6.45 per sqm.
So times the total sheet area by the price, equalling ($480.65)
(NOTE: OUR CLASS WAS GIVEN 2.4M STUD HEIGHTS.)
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Cladding
Cladding Installation:
Today we installed cladding on the mock houses, we used MDF as cladding representing cement sheeting. Before we went outside, me and Cameron ripped down some pine for the internal and external stop ends we rebated the external stop end, we then used brown builders paper as sisolation to start with, wrapping up both an external and internal corners ensuring it overlapped at least 20m horizontally and 50m vertically.
Once that was done we put flashing down the corners and screwed our stop ends onto corner studs. We then proceeded to clad the wall, first measuring the length between the internal and external corners.
Starting at the bottom working up, first using a packer of equal thickness as the cladding, this was screwed into the side of the structural steel track. We put in our first length of cladding leveling it with our stop ends (already leveled of each other) we then overlapped each length after that by 25mm, you get into a rhythm and the cladding goes up fast and
efficiently.
Today we installed cladding on the mock houses, we used MDF as cladding representing cement sheeting. Before we went outside, me and Cameron ripped down some pine for the internal and external stop ends we rebated the external stop end, we then used brown builders paper as sisolation to start with, wrapping up both an external and internal corners ensuring it overlapped at least 20m horizontally and 50m vertically.Once that was done we put flashing down the corners and screwed our stop ends onto corner studs. We then proceeded to clad the wall, first measuring the length between the internal and external corners.
Starting at the bottom working up, first using a packer of equal thickness as the cladding, this was screwed into the side of the structural steel track. We put in our first length of cladding leveling it with our stop ends (already leveled of each other) we then overlapped each length after that by 25mm, you get into a rhythm and the cladding goes up fast and
efficiently.
Hanging Doors and Installing Door Hardware.
Hanging Doors:
On Friday our class was divided into two groups. One Half proceeded into hanging doors and the other worked on alternative projects like the toolboxes and chopping boards.
I went onto work on the doors; after last weeks theory we now got to put that in to practice, we started with a single door that sat within a steel frame braced against those around them. We could not ensure that they where plumb, because the lecturers had already fixed them. However we got stuck in any way, we first tried to sit the door within the frame and check it for size, one we know how much needs to be taken of we put the door in a vise or brace and planed down the hinge side with a buzzer, allowing a few more millimeters to be taken of the inside edge.
Once the doors fitted within the frame with a few mill clearance on each side (taking into account the fact the hinge(build into the door) was not get chiseled out). We then raised the door using wedges packing the top out two millimeters. At the back of the door you ensure that there is two to three mill cap between the back of the door and the rebate, ensuring that the doors does not become hinge bound, when marking this cap onto the hinge side of the door you mark them taking the hinge away from inside edge, pushing the hinge out further along with the door.
Once the door is sitting flush within the frame, you mark out the hinges out using a pencil. You take them down and use a square to line them up, you mark out you're hinge depth, height and width across the door with a marking gauge or without and then proceed to chisel it out to the required depth.
Once you're hinges sit flush within the door, you will then lift you're door using wedges to height so that the hinges lines up, you then countersink and screw the highest point on the top hinge, you then screw the bottom hinge on and close the door. This method requires quality time to be taken when marking out and my door did not tacking down.
Double Doors:
The same processes are used while hanging double doors, only allot of care needs to be taken to ensure that they are plumb and level with each other, equally the latch side of the door on double doors need to be planed with a slope backwards, allowing the doors to close without touching.
Installing Door Hardware:
On our single door we installed common passage handles with common latches, You start by finding you're latch height (as it was a steel prefab frame) and proceed to mark the middle across the front of the door (in pencil) you then find the depth of the common latch and mark that vertically across the horizontal height line. Where they cross is the middle and where you're hole saw should aim at.
Once the hole big enough to house the door hardware was drilled out we then marked the latch out using the same method to find the middle height and width across the latch sides face, we then used a chisel to take out the latch plate, ensuring it sits flush. Once thats done you get a spade bit large enough to fit the common passage and drill out the latch housings.
After that, you place you're latch passage through and then put the handles on, screwing it all together.
Once that is done the latch plate needed moving forward ensuring the door was tight when closed.
On Friday our class was divided into two groups. One Half proceeded into hanging doors and the other worked on alternative projects like the toolboxes and chopping boards.
I went onto work on the doors; after last weeks theory we now got to put that in to practice, we started with a single door that sat within a steel frame braced against those around them. We could not ensure that they where plumb, because the lecturers had already fixed them. However we got stuck in any way, we first tried to sit the door within the frame and check it for size, one we know how much needs to be taken of we put the door in a vise or brace and planed down the hinge side with a buzzer, allowing a few more millimeters to be taken of the inside edge.
Once the doors fitted within the frame with a few mill clearance on each side (taking into account the fact the hinge(build into the door) was not get chiseled out). We then raised the door using wedges packing the top out two millimeters. At the back of the door you ensure that there is two to three mill cap between the back of the door and the rebate, ensuring that the doors does not become hinge bound, when marking this cap onto the hinge side of the door you mark them taking the hinge away from inside edge, pushing the hinge out further along with the door.
Once the door is sitting flush within the frame, you mark out the hinges out using a pencil. You take them down and use a square to line them up, you mark out you're hinge depth, height and width across the door with a marking gauge or without and then proceed to chisel it out to the required depth.
Once you're hinges sit flush within the door, you will then lift you're door using wedges to height so that the hinges lines up, you then countersink and screw the highest point on the top hinge, you then screw the bottom hinge on and close the door. This method requires quality time to be taken when marking out and my door did not tacking down.
Double Doors:
The same processes are used while hanging double doors, only allot of care needs to be taken to ensure that they are plumb and level with each other, equally the latch side of the door on double doors need to be planed with a slope backwards, allowing the doors to close without touching.
Installing Door Hardware:
On our single door we installed common passage handles with common latches, You start by finding you're latch height (as it was a steel prefab frame) and proceed to mark the middle across the front of the door (in pencil) you then find the depth of the common latch and mark that vertically across the horizontal height line. Where they cross is the middle and where you're hole saw should aim at.
Once the hole big enough to house the door hardware was drilled out we then marked the latch out using the same method to find the middle height and width across the latch sides face, we then used a chisel to take out the latch plate, ensuring it sits flush. Once thats done you get a spade bit large enough to fit the common passage and drill out the latch housings.
After that, you place you're latch passage through and then put the handles on, screwing it all together.
Once that is done the latch plate needed moving forward ensuring the door was tight when closed.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Skirting
Today we spent most of the day learning about skirting and doing various angles from 90 degrees to 45 degrees.
How it was Done:
We started by getting a large mold to nail our skirting onto and then went and got the MDF. I then started on the easiest angle (internal corner at 90 degrees) and cut one piece of the MDF at 45 degrees, once that is complete i butted this against a flush piece of MDF that buts level into you're corner. You then mark the internal side of the MDF and use the coping saw to follow this edge angling the saw inwards slightly allowing some space behind the face.
One MDF have been scribed together You can then mark the outside edge cutting at 45 from the corner outwards. You then repeat this process as you move around the wall.
When you come to a Architrave you can do a few different things, you can either scribe out the Architrave or the Skirting. When the skirting is scribed around the architrave the skirting needs to be cut on an angle with the longest point on the outside edge, the angle you cut it at is dependent upon the type of finish on the architraves edge. You then use the coping saw to scribe around the edge of the skirting making sure that you angle it and ensure the face runs clean over the architrave.
How it was Done:
We started by getting a large mold to nail our skirting onto and then went and got the MDF. I then started on the easiest angle (internal corner at 90 degrees) and cut one piece of the MDF at 45 degrees, once that is complete i butted this against a flush piece of MDF that buts level into you're corner. You then mark the internal side of the MDF and use the coping saw to follow this edge angling the saw inwards slightly allowing some space behind the face.
One MDF have been scribed together You can then mark the outside edge cutting at 45 from the corner outwards. You then repeat this process as you move around the wall.
When you come to a Architrave you can do a few different things, you can either scribe out the Architrave or the Skirting. When the skirting is scribed around the architrave the skirting needs to be cut on an angle with the longest point on the outside edge, the angle you cut it at is dependent upon the type of finish on the architraves edge. You then use the coping saw to scribe around the edge of the skirting making sure that you angle it and ensure the face runs clean over the architrave.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Window and Door Installation.
Over the past few days at Tafe we have been learning about Window Installation and the process of making the window water tight and sealed. We learnt about how to plan and prepare, how to install the window frames and doors into different walls and how these walls ties into both the footing and the roof structure.
Water Proofing: When installing a window a waterproof flashing is required both above the head and below the sill of the window, this can be a actual tray or made from flexible aluminimun sheets like alcor allowing no water to run onto the sill trimmer. The head flashing must turn up over the wall cladding and then fall down over the head, in the case of weather board wall coverings the header flashing sits above vertical flashing that follows the architrave.
Window Installation:
Usually when installing windows the window will come already made and ready to install, if this be a timber Window or a Aluminimun. The Window will sit within the Jam studs and will need to be leveled and plumbed using packers and leveled so the external cladding sits a few millimeters beyond the window sash, the timber framed window will then be nailed into these packers (however there is no need for any packing or fixing through the head into the lintel, it is also required that the lintel and head have at least ten mm of play to ensure the window has some flex).
One the Window is in you then proceed to Install the Sill, notching out for the window frame. You then Proceed to install the window jams ensuring they are flush with the final finishing. The Wall is then plastered and covered, once the plaster is on, you then Finnish the interior with the architrave, usually mitering them at 45 degrees.
Installing Door:
When installing a door frame the principles are similar, you ensure the frame is the right way around, make sure the ground is level and ensure there is no twist in the door frame.
When the Jam is installed the you ensure the head is perfectly level and if the floor is unlevel then the stiles need to be cut to two different lengths, when you do cut down the stiles it is essential to take into account the floor coverings that will be used.
Once the frame is cut and ready to be installed you nail the head and stiled together and place a spreader at the bottom. You then proceed to place the lining into the opening and nail or screw on side to the stud, ensuring is level and straight. You then work around the frame ensuring it's plumb and straight. After the lining is in place you cut in the architraves and place them around the frame.
We have also covered over the last few days Wall Cavities, Bricks, Locks and Hinges. We learnt how course heights work and how you ensure than you're internal cavity remains water tight. How wall ties are used and how often.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Explosive Power Tools
Yesterday we learnt about explosive power tools or (EPT's) and there application to the construction industry. We also learnt about how to use them and the responsibilities those who are using them have to protect themselves and those around them.
Types:
EPT's come to two variations, direct EPT's and indirect EPT's, direct EPT's essentially just shoot the nail down the barrel using direct forces from the explosion of the cartirage, compare this to indirect EPT's that have a piston that forces the Nail forward. The difference between the two EPT's would be best described as control, direct EPT's don't have the level of control over the nail when comparing them with indirect EPT's that have a piston. Thus it is required for all EPT nails to have plastic guides and for them to have a shield around the nozzle of the Gun, this protects the user and others around the job.
Parts:
EPT's are very simple, they have a firing pin that shoots towards the loaded cartridge that then explodes, this then fires the drive pin(nail) or Piston down the barrel that then drives the pin.
OS&H:
In terms of Safety, the PPE that is required is Safety glasses, Boots and Ear Muffs or plugs as these are easily the most vulnerable to injury when using a nail gun. When you using a EPT you are required to have signage and give a clear loud verbal warning when firing each round, you are also to ensure that no one else is within six meters of the EPT while in use. When you are not using a EPT and have it stored away it should always be left in a locked container.
If a EPT fails the fire you are required to keep pressure on the nozzle for ten seconds before lifting it. For it may fire after a delay.
In western Australia uses do not require a license to use a Direct EPT.
Application:
When it comes to applying a EPT to different tasks it's important to know what they can be used for, EPT's can not be used on particular products and two particular materials can not unnecessarily be nailed together using a EPT in a particular order. For instance, one can not nail steel to Wood, rather wood needs to be nailed onto the steel as the timber would not have the necessary holding power to keep the steel in place.
The types of products that can not be used in junction with a nail gun are generally those that are too weak or brittle. Simple because a EPT would go straight through say fibrous cement sheeting. Equally there are some metals such as copper that are to soft.
Cartridges and strength:
When it comes to the types of firepower, EPT's can go from relatively weak to very powerful.
The weakest being a brown cartridge all the way up to Black. EPT of today are adjustable allowing for greater diversity in what a cartridge can be used for.
The Following colours show the strength from weakest to strongest.
Brown, Green, Yellow, Red, Purple, White and Black.
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